Thursday, April 19, 2007

Photos, Blog, Photos...


The entire house was destroyed, all that was left was the clay brick stove, but somehow this plate was unmoved, if you look closely you can see the clay pot it was covering has be severed in half.

The entire house was destroyed, all that was left was the clay brick stove, but somehow this plate was unmoved, if you look closely you can see the clay pot it was covering has be severed in half.

This boy looked though the barred window of his shell damaged home to stare at the pile of rubble that was once his neighbors house.

A happy Buddha greets us as we take a quick detour on our way out of the East.
Back in Aceh…

So I am back from Sri Lanka, it was an interesting trip. So much has happened I don’t even know where to begin…

For the trip itself, Sri Lanka is a beautiful place, the cities are infused with constant energy and purpose, the country is serene and almost grand. On long drives you can see wild elephants cross through heard of scattering peacocks; view 75 foot Buddha statues or man made dams constructed thousands of years ago and stronger than anything we could find today; children bathing in wild orchid ponds or walking along curving red dusted clay roads that seem born for photographs. Yet you step into the eastern parts of Sri Lanka and all that beauty is lost in the sight of armed guards every 100 yards and security checkpoints every few miles; the distant sounds of shelling and sporadic machine gun fire; the desolated villages and shell damaged houses; the family bunkers and abandoned beach hotels.

As we traveled through this sad region we never felt danger, that real in your face sense of unsettled tension, but it was an unavoidable thought. Every shout, every loud unaccounted for ‘night sound’ left you a bit uneasy, this is why the people who can leave have left, this is why the towns are so ghostly still. We visited the house where the 17 NGO workers were killed last year, gated and locked it carried its own hauntings that prevented any of us from crossing though that easily opened gate—a reminder that didn’t need minding. Every one of our days spent in the east we strained to listen for the shots and shells; almost a giddy anxiousness took hold. It was weird. One day I sat alone on a magnificent stretch of beach and watched a perfect sunset, something so beautiful you want to freeze the image away in your mind, but it was so alone and still, it seemed a sad moment of wasted perfection.

That will be the legacy of this conflict; some of the best parts of Sri Lanka are closed off to the world because of the conflict. Landmines, and rebel groups, soldiers and training grounds, fear and ‘resettlement camps’ are the history that will define the failure of a country once set as a model of the Asiatic world. It is not too late for Sri Lanka, but the more entrenched the fighting becomes the further away the country will be from seeing true hope for a generation of children that have grown-up in state of civil war.

I covered one story, a story I have not yet written, but my trip was cut short by a month. On Monday April 9, 2007 I crawled into bed early, at 10:30pm, I get a text to call my NHQ ASAP, less than 24 hours later I was disembarking the airplane in Banda Aceh. We have had several issues emerge and they felt a bit uneasy about me being so far from my delegation in case any media issues arose.

On the one hand, I was of course bummed to be cutting my trip short, I had really been looking forward to my trip to DC and Omaha, but on the other hand, it was really exciting that they ‘needed’ me back. Growing-up in the development world you see the important people being called back from trips, being relocated at the last minute and you always wonder if that will ever be you—If you’ll ever be important enough to be rerouted and flown across the globe at a moments notice. So, I am back in Aceh and will be here indefinitely but will not be complaining about it. Now please enjoy some more pictures…

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Three doors in a row blasted out by the force of the shelling.
A young girls walks along the outline of her future home.
A beautiful family.

I love this photo.
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Friday, March 23, 2007

Sri Lanka Bound

I leave tomorrow, I am looking forward to this trip; it will allow me the opportunity to cover programs that have never been covered before because of the security situation. I am keeping my fingers crossed that the situation does not deteriorate to a level that it will be deemed impossible to travel.

I will arrive in Colombo on the 24 March and will be attending a conference until 31 March. After that, I will join the team and spend the next three weeks getting to know the issues facing the delegation as well as covering our programs. This will be my first trip under my new title as regional communication delegate so I am incredibly excited and anxious to start.

On 19 April, I will depart for Washington, DC, for a series of meetings and a few “brown-bags” (non-formal presentations). Returning to DC will be really energizing for me. I still vividly remember arriving in DC alone and with only enough money to manage a room in a group house (money that came from my parents). I was starting grad-school and getting ready to live with a friend from Peace Corps. Three years later, I was leaving DC with my Masters, a friend from PC that evolved into family, my first consultancy under my belt, a true love found and lost and job that was taking me to Indonesia. I went from broke and alone, to leaving a world that I fought tooth-and-nail to build. It will be a great homecoming.

Following DC I will take a few days of personal time and fly to Omaha (around 27 April). I will spend the week with my family visiting and decompressing from (literally) a world of travel. I do not need to explain all the reason visiting my family is exciting and necessary for my heart and mental health. After that, I will leave for a conference in Portland, OR, from 3-6 May, and then it is back to Aceh around 9 May. I will have been gone for almost one-and-a-half months so I will have a ton of work to catch-up on…two weeks later I will leave again.

I will try to update you all from Sri Lanka. My love and my best.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Click here to read my new story it just went up on the website.

Friday, March 16, 2007

Lions and Tigers and Bears, Oh My

So I wish it was that simple. Unfortunately, it is plane crashes, boat sinkings, earthquakes and mudslides. Indonesia is an archipelago unlike any in the world. A land made and continually renewed through “disaster.” The people here have come to expect and cope with the fits of nature, but when man makes his own disaster, everyone feels a different sense of tragedy. As we are all mourning those who suffered in the recent plane crash I can’t help but wonder what is next. In less than three months two boats have sank, two planes have met tragic ends, several earthquakes have plagued the most rural of populations, rains have flooded the largest cities, bird flu has bred fear and threatened local economies, dengue fever has taken more lives than all the rest combined and I haven’t yet gotten to the mudslides. Suffering is a part of daily life here, it is an unfortunate truth.

I am fine; I no longer understand what fine means but whatever it means, I am that. I have been traveling almost continually since my last post. I was in Aceh for three days but was called to the capital for a series of emergency meetings regarding a vaccination campaign. I just returned to Aceh, another turbulent and shaky flight, twisting and turning in the heavy winds.

While I have been away I witnessed several vaccinations, it was an awesome feeling to be a part of such a noble pursuit. A few days ago I took part in celebration: Indonesia is one year free of polio, a hard fought victory in a much greater battle for the long-term health of the Republic’s future. Last week I attended several meetings for a crash immunization campaign for Jakarta. The government, and a series of local and international organizations, are going to target street children and the poorest regions of the capital—who bore the brunt of the most recent floods—in an inspiring effort. I am so humbled to be a part of this. Sitting in these meetings, planning, working with the press, working with the partners: it is such a magnificent feeling to sense the goodness in people.

These are my less serious observations from four weeks of travel in Indonesia:

I met a beautiful women at a hotel bar the other day. She was stunning enough to cause everyone in the room to focus on her ungodly beautiful eyes, me being the dorkiest of hotel guests I paid the least attention—though I may have taken a private glance from time to time. After a while she worked her way over to me and introduced herself. She had an awesome looking tattoo on her arm so I asked what it meant. “it’s a number but you have to guess.” I sadly muttered “seven, seven, seven.” She giggled and said “close, it is six, six, six.” I giggled awkwardly, grabbed my bag and ran to my room—God sends his own signs.

On a recent flight, I sat next to two sweet, older, Indonesian women wearing traditional jilbaps. As the drinks came, the woman sitting near the window (I was in the isle seat) ordered O.J. I was wearing a white linen shirt. The stewardess gave her a glass nearly full. I had an instant revelation: she was going to spill on me. The women, un-happy with the amount of O.J. in her glass asked the stewardess to add more O.J. Now we entered the waiting game. Forty-five minutes later, my eyes remained transfixed on that lightly sipped glass. This wait for the spilling was almost unbearable. Turbulence, more turbulence, and the glass was now taunting me, making fun. The plane was bouncing through the clouds like a ping-pong ball but that damn glass just shook, taunting me. Finally, as the landing gear dropped and the stewardess came to collect the last of the trash my window seated friend handed her juice over, I was giddy with anticipation…

As the stewardess started apologize profusely I wore a euphoric grin, it was now over. Covered in O.J. I could finally relax.

“It was on time, only a little bit late,” the best quote from the worst press conference I have ever been a part of.

I was told on a Saturday to be at a press conference on Monday and had no clothes, went on an emergency shopping spree and ended up looking like an Easter egg. At said press conference, I was told, two minutes before it stated, that I had to give remarks to the press.

I had to take a flight in a storm the other day and was the only passenger on a 30 seater. The stewardess said, “I’m guessing you don’t need the emergency speech so have fun and let me know if you need anything.” They only took off because of who I work for, they did a great favor but it was hysterically weird being the only person on a plane;

My Frenchy is tired of my travel; she has patiently just left on our vacation without me because my newest round of travel came on too short of notice to allow me to join on the trip I had planned. We have seen each-other four times in five weeks and I may see her one more time before I leave again for 5-8 weeks.

I know this is a big blog post, sorry, I have little time. I am now the regional communicator and will be going to Sri Lanka on the 22rd of March and should be their until around the 19th of April. I may be getting access to the East of Sri Lanka which is a hard region to get access to due to the recent security situation but if I can go it will be awesome. I also have to take a few other trips during this tour and will not make it back to Aceh until May 10th or later. I am frantically trying to arrange a trip that involves two countries and more villages and cities than I can count.

Traveling as much as I have been lately is frustrating and invigorating at the same time. On the one had I am stuck staying in remote places alone, eating hotel food and dining alone, traveling alone and rarely interacting with anyone on a level beyond a surface conversation (or worse) a fractured, special English conversation. On the other hand, this is my dream. This is something that I have wanted and worked for most my adult life and it is all unfolding in front of me. It is humbling to see how much trust people have in my talents and how much God sheds his blessing on my life. Okay, I am off.

Enjoy the photos...


As the only passenger on the flight I had to keep myself busy so I snapped a few shots, the next is a personal favorite...
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Pilot trying to see out the window, we are a few thousand feet off the ground as he is doing this, all smiles
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The child is weighed and information is recoded on weight, height, etc. Then the child sees the needle and wonders what that’s for…
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Terrific pain ensues as the child receives her vaccination
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Lastly the child's finger is marked with a purple dot to help with the house to house survey following the campaign
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Is that not the cutest baby face ever
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I found this grandmother and daughter to be absolutely stunning. They have the exact same eyes and reaction, they smiled the moment I put the camera down
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Terror and joy, these are healthy vaccinated children, if only they new that was a good thing...
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Rare to see a group of smiling faces, most kids thought I was going to vaccinate them and fled in terror
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Look at this studly scribe in white v-neck…

Tuesday, February 13, 2007

My Java Script

I am going to be traveling for the next two weeks starting tomorrow (Wednesday). If I have time, I will try to update the blog while I am on the road but I am not sure what my availability will be. I am going to Central Java tomorrow (I have to fly to Jakarta and then take a three hour car ride) once I get to Java I am speaking at a press briefing for two days and then leave to fly back to Jakarta Friday afternoon. I'll spend the weekend working in Jakarta with our partners and NHQ and then have a press roundtable on Monday, Tuesday morning I fly out to Central Java for the start of the campaign. My organization and its partners are vaccinating 13 million children for Measles and Polio (also providing vitamin A shots), in one week. It’s the largest single vaccination campaign in the history of Indonesia and I get to be a part of it. I love my job.

All the details, logistics and meeting that I have to do from now until then will be worth it just for the chance to take part in process of saving lives. During 2000-2005 more than 360 million children were vaccinated globally and from 1999-2005 measles deaths in Africa dropped by 75%. It is truly exciting and humbling to be a part of something this meaningful. It also reflects the amazing reach of the organization that I work for and the Movement it is a part of; 97 million volunteers worldwide, the worlds largest humanitarian Movement, that is a staggering number and a powerful statement about humanity.

I can get so preachy-goody-goody sometimes...Anyways I look forward to it. I expect to be back in Aceh on the 27th or 28th of February.

Other updates...

On Sunday I ran 15 miles, it was hot and my body despised me for it, my legs still feel like they’re filled with rocks, but it was the last chance I had for a long run for a while so I had to go for it. I am not sure when, where or if I will be traveling much in March everything is too up in the air now. I am working on an array of things and just can't seem to ever clear my plate enough to justify extensive work travel. We will see... I want to write more but if I don’t stop now this will get too long to be readable.

Happy Valentines Day, what a stupid wasteful holiday. The best gift I ever recieved made me mad, funny to think about now, it did result in getting me my favorite pair of shoes. It is a day made to increase stress and induce depression…oh, and spend money. Damn the mindless masses for playing the fool in this silly game of economics and facilitated romance (or better, impeding true romance). Okay, I am off to the florist; sadly, that is not a joke…Long live Saint Valentines.

Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Super Monday

13.1 miles in 95-degree heat. I have run much further, and run in hotter, but Sunday has to be one of the better overall runs I have ever had. It hurt so much, it was so hot, the traffic was constant and unnerving; every uncomfortable running condition was there (right down to the sunburned lips I now smack with pride). It is funny to run here, Aceh is a beautiful but congested city with lots of traffic and little in terms of traffic laws. To survive a long run I go to the main highway (which is about three lanes wide with traffic moving in different directions and no traffic lines to distinguish lanes) and run straight, the road goes on for several miles before you get to the next town.

Now for the embarrassing addition, my driver follows behind me in the car. He drives slowly to protect me from oncoming traffic. It is funny; here is this crazy sweaty American running through town with a new beautiful Landcruiser following behind, very inconspicuous. At first I was embarrassed by this but have now become entirely addicted. I stock the car with water, Gatorade and whatever other running aids I need and every few miles I make him pull over and give me something to drink. The driver will say something encouraging about the heat or how strong my legs are and we will both laugh as I roll my eyes and start running again.

I really struggled on Sunday but I was fortunate, my friend Ilisa came and ran with me for the first eight miles. Ilisa is visiting from NHQ and loves to run so I was thrilled to have her poke and prod me along. After eight miles, she got in the car and was my cheerleader for three more. Seeing that I was dying, she got out and paced me for the last two (a pace person is the one that runs ahead and tries to keep the speed constant), it worked as the last two miles were done at a good fast clip. This is not an exiting post but it makes me happy.

The best part of my runs are the people. They are always so shocked to see me running and the dynamic is always the same. First, they start out by making fun of me, then, after a while, they start to say hello and try to engage me in conversation and in the end they always end up cheering. I have had runs where Indonesians will slowdown in their cars just to give me a high-five, the other day a group of kids bought, and brought, me a small bottle of water. It’s so amazing to me how insignificant differences are the moment people put their guard down. Initially they see an American and are understandably standoffish. Yet, the moment they see me struggling and bumbling, they forget that and start seeing a person trying his hardest and they begin trying to build me up. This wouldn’t be so amazing if it didn’t happen every single time, but it does. I wish I could be more eloquent but I just don’t have the words to say how comforting these simple revelations are.

Lastly, the Super Bowl. I watched in on a 5ft by 5ft projection screen. I had the equipment at my house because I had a big presentation on Saturday. I have never seen a super bowl on such a big screen, right in my living room. I will now have to buy an HD or LCD Projector because I can never watch football on a small screen again. The only thing missing were the commercials—we supplemented the long European commercial breaks by putting the satellite on Fashion TV and watching lager than life runway models walk down my big screen. If you have to watch the game at 6am this is the way to do it—the beers weren’t bad either, though breakfast beer is a decidedly infrequent delicacy.